peace out!
Friday, November 19, 2010
PAIINN!!!
Ok so after an amazing week last week, I've spent most of this week in the serious dumps. On Saturday we had our first CCS comp of the season and our team crushed beyond all reason. Chatt Nasty came out in huge ways taking 1st through 13th place in mens and 1st and 2nd in women's! The comp was a lot of fun and although we missed our App state homies, we still had a blast throwing down on the plastic. On a personal note, I spent about half the comp working on the last move of one problem which I came painfully close to sending just about every attempt. The ending move was a giant grab for the top rail and at the very end of the comp elliott and I figured out new beta which made the move a little more doable but neither of us was able to send. That problem caused my body so much pain because I was landing on my back from the top bar time after time after time. I wanted to send it so badly because I thought that if I didn't get it then I wouldn't get third. I know it sounds dumb to use so much energy on a problem like that at a comp, but it was a personal goal of mine to make the top 3. Well as it turns out, I got third place without the problem and have spent the past week recovering from all the climbing I did last week. First I was sore, then my back started hurting and now I pulled something in my wrist that's making it go numb whenever I tweak it. So I'm leading a trip out to LRC tomorrow for UTC outdoors but besides that I'll probably be keeping it pretty low key for the next few days in an attempt to get over all this hurting. Oh yeah, and I'm missing the ETSU route comp tomorrow because I can't climb on this wrist. Suckssss!! But I'm not worried cuz I know the team will crush.
Saturday, November 13, 2010
Great start to the season!
So after about 4 trips to LRC in the past week, I'm more psyched than I've ever been!! The projects have been falling one by one. First I sent Redhouse extension which is my first v8, then I got a sweet 5 called Fat Cat, then a really fun 6 called Main area traverse (I did it from left to right), then I got Jerry's Kids!! Not too bad for one week. I'm feeling strong and climbing really well and I can already tell that this is going to be an awesome season. I've had to not climb the past couple days because I needed to save skin for today, which is our FIRST CCS comp of the season!! In about an hour I'll be headed to franklin, TN to compete at the Crag (the place that started it all for me). I can't wait to climb some sweet plastic and kick it with old friends. Anyways, here are some pictures from the past couple times we've been out. There aren't any of me cuz I'm the one that took them.
Wednesday, November 3, 2010
The Winter Tick List
So I went out with Sam yesterday and he finally got Super Mario Brothers!! That problem has been giving him trouble for years so it was awesome to see hi slay bowzer (as he said). While I was there I decided to check out the right extension to Red House. From the jug at the end of Red House I was able to piece together all the moves of the extension after only a couple goes. I then tried to link them up but kept getting shut down on one of the early moves of Red House. But either way that problem now goes on the tick list which I've assembled thanks to my handy, dandy Stone Fort (LRC) Guidebook!!! Seriously, the thing is siiiick! Here's the list for the winter as of now. Hopefully I'll be crossing these guys off asap.
Projects
Jerry's Kids (7)
Red House Extension (8)
Tooth Fairy (7)
Cast Away (7)
The Wave (5)
Cleopatra (8)
A Face in the Crowd (7)
Deception (7)
Diesel Power (5)
Instinct (7)
Now that I've got the guidebook I'm realizing how few problems I've actually done so now is the time to dedicate some time to ye olde Stone Fort.
thanks for reading (pictures/videos to come soon)
-Dubs
Monday, November 1, 2010
It's been so long!
I know it's been a crazy long time since I updated this thing so I decided to stop by and drop some info on the plans for the season and recent developments.
The Red
Me and Drew led a trip to the red last week and it was shweet! The trip was led through UTC outdoors so it wasn't all about us trying hard stuff but I still managed to climb some fun stuff and get lots of new climbers leading for the first time. The crew was solid and everyone was killing it and crushing their fears! I did climb one hard route, but only at the request of the guys who wanted to top rope it. It's a 12a called Scar Tissue out at the Zoo. From the ground I imagined myself hangdogging the whole thing and crying out in extreme pumpy pain, but I fared better than expected. I did the route with two rests (couldn't find a good clipping spot, then couldn't figure out the beta at the top). For an onsight attempt of something I thought I'd never be able to do I was pretty psyched, especially since I haven't been training routes AT ALL lately. So maybe this'll be the season where I shatter the barrier between 5.11 and 5.12. But right now is bouldering season!
I have three projects that are close to sending:
Jerry's Kids v7
Nose Candy v6
One % 5.12a
Which means that I NEED PROJECTS!!
That's right, I'm talking to you. If you know of cool boulder problems/routes in the greater Chattanooga area, hit me up!
The Red
Me and Drew led a trip to the red last week and it was shweet! The trip was led through UTC outdoors so it wasn't all about us trying hard stuff but I still managed to climb some fun stuff and get lots of new climbers leading for the first time. The crew was solid and everyone was killing it and crushing their fears! I did climb one hard route, but only at the request of the guys who wanted to top rope it. It's a 12a called Scar Tissue out at the Zoo. From the ground I imagined myself hangdogging the whole thing and crying out in extreme pumpy pain, but I fared better than expected. I did the route with two rests (couldn't find a good clipping spot, then couldn't figure out the beta at the top). For an onsight attempt of something I thought I'd never be able to do I was pretty psyched, especially since I haven't been training routes AT ALL lately. So maybe this'll be the season where I shatter the barrier between 5.11 and 5.12. But right now is bouldering season!
I have three projects that are close to sending:
Jerry's Kids v7
Nose Candy v6
One % 5.12a
Which means that I NEED PROJECTS!!
That's right, I'm talking to you. If you know of cool boulder problems/routes in the greater Chattanooga area, hit me up!
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