Tuesday, March 22, 2011

Honeycomb!

Alright so over spring break I decided to make Honeycomb (out in dayton) my project for the week. I'd previously only climbed v8 and only a couple at that, but since I love roof climbing I for some reason thought this was a good idea. Well, after 3 sessions and more than a couple heartbreaking attempts, I was able to send!! I'm so freaking psyched! This is my first v10 adn by far the best thing I've climbed. The best part about it is that it's an amazing line that's super fun to climb. Anyways, Kasia came out with me and took some video and edited it together like a champ so here's the footage: Thanks for reading.



Saturday, March 12, 2011

the sweetness


So the past few weeks have been magical for the boys of 1802 Chamberlain. Here's what's been going down: 

First and foremost, ELLIOTT SENT T-THONG!! 

Elliott Brown on Tennessee Thong v7

In case you haven't had the privilege of seeing Elliott work it over the past 3 years, you probably won't ever see him touch it again because his nemesis has finally been sent. It literally got ridiculous how dialed Elliott had the first moves to Tennessee thong, but that last bump has haunted him for years (no really... years). But with some new beta and courage, Elliott decided to hit it up at the end of our session on Friday and he's so glad he did. In the hours after the sun had sent, Elliott dug deep and pulled it out! Gah, I'm so proud of him. Friday was also sweet because Lindsey Kirkland came out with us and got her first v6 (Shotgun), and Zoe Smith flashed her first v3 (totally gonna be climbing v5 is she keeps going outside). 

Lindsey Kirkland on Shotgun v6


On a personal note, we went out to Dayton today for only my second time and I was able to send Torpedo (v7) on my first go of the day and get all the moves of Honeycomb (v10!). Everything felt great and I'm hoping that with a few more days over spring break to work it I might be able to pull out a send which would be a HUGE burst of confidence for me. I know it's late in the bouldering season (like it's basically over) but we're still fighting for these last few weeks of stacking pads. 

Here are some more pictures of recent climbing excursions: 

Me on Tristar v3




Elliott Brown on Celestial Mechanics v7


The Crew


                                             

Sunday, February 20, 2011

Man Hands

Well, I got my second v8! I'm really psyched because the climb was super fun and I think this is a much more solid climb than the redhouse extension. That said, there are still boulder problems to be completed before roping up for the spring. But I'm also super excited to get back on routes and try to really push myself on a rope this season. Hopefully I can tick off a couple more projects by the time it gets too hot to boulder. Hope everybody's crushin!!!

Thursday, January 20, 2011

80's Babies and a Soggy Day

So we at Chatt Nasty just had our second annual back to school bash climbing competition! This year we decided to call it "80's Babies." Of course, everyone dressed in their best 1980's attire and we all got down to some Bon Jovi while crushing plastic boulder problems. Myself and drew were the only setters for this comp and I think we did a pretty good job. The turnout was fantastic and we even had some newcomers take Men's open. I took pictures the whole time and then decided to play around with some new photo editing software I've acquired. The pictures might not be classically beautiful, but I've always had a thing for high contrast, crazy effect photos. So here they are. Oh, and the soggy day was when I went out solo climbing at LRC on a major snow melt day last week. I was barely able to climb anything cuz of sloppy top outs, but I was able to claim my first send of A Face in the Crowd v7, a flash of Boro Traverse v6, and a few other fun v4s and 3s.

Brett working his way through one of our Advanced Problems

Elliott working his way up to brush a hold I think

Fellers figuring out how to break more holds





Tuesday, January 11, 2011

Dayton Pocket and a New Year.

So in case you missed it, the new year has officially begun and it's high time those resolutions start getting the attention they probably don't deserve at all. As far as climbing goes, I'm not going to put a number on the grade I want to climb this year or name any specific projects although they do exist. Instead, I'm just going to say that my resolution is to climb harder and enjoy it more. Keep it simple, right? So to start off the year, I went with some buds out to the super-secret-stash-that-no-one-but-us-has-ever-climbed-at (ha, yeah right) Dayton Pocket. This was my first time and I have to say that the hype surrounding the roof and the other various boulder problems didn't overshadow how cool the climbing was. The only thing I wasn't expecting was how beautiful the landscape surrounding the boulders and river was. That place is stinkin' beautiful, especially with all the ice. Oh yeah, and the climbing was sick.




To start off the day I wanted to hit up the super sweet river problem, River Dance. I wasn't expecting to flash or to send at all considering it's a grade harder than anything I've ever done, but I was super psyched to get 3 of the 5 moves on my first session. Considering how out of shape I am and how good the holds felt, I think this problem could go with some more work. Oh yeah, and Kyle crushed this thing in good fashion after working it only once before. Dude's getting seriously strong, which I guess means I have to start listening to him when he tells me to do ab workouts with him. 

practicing my product placement shots

Next we hit up the roof and I have to say, it's not quite as large as the elephant sized rumors would suggest, but it's still impressive nonetheless. First I got on reconciliation which was pretty fun then it was on to Torpedo. This is one of those stupid stories that should be accompanied by a video but since I'm limited to a still camera, you'll just have to use your imagination. So I got on the problem once after having it explained to me and dropped after the first move I think because I needed more beta. Then, on my second go I cruised the thing up to the very last move. Now the last three moves are just campusing on jugs once pulling the lip and for some reason I was unable to hit the very last of the three. So dumb. So I fell and yelled some words/phrases I'd care not to repeat (sorry to anyone who was around) and continued to be humbled for the next 10-15 tries. Didn't get the send because each sequential attempt felt worse than the last. So I'm going to choose to look at this as a positive considering I almost got a v7 second go and felt good on a v9. Now I just need to get back out there and finish that business. 

Mike working the right sit to River Dance

Ya know, I'm starting to believe that head game is a bigger part of climbing (even bouldering) than I used to believe. Who cares how long the projects take or which problems feel stupid hard. This year I want to stay positive and continue to enjoy climbing because after all, that's what it's all about. I love pebble wrestlin'