Tuesday, January 11, 2011

Dayton Pocket and a New Year.

So in case you missed it, the new year has officially begun and it's high time those resolutions start getting the attention they probably don't deserve at all. As far as climbing goes, I'm not going to put a number on the grade I want to climb this year or name any specific projects although they do exist. Instead, I'm just going to say that my resolution is to climb harder and enjoy it more. Keep it simple, right? So to start off the year, I went with some buds out to the super-secret-stash-that-no-one-but-us-has-ever-climbed-at (ha, yeah right) Dayton Pocket. This was my first time and I have to say that the hype surrounding the roof and the other various boulder problems didn't overshadow how cool the climbing was. The only thing I wasn't expecting was how beautiful the landscape surrounding the boulders and river was. That place is stinkin' beautiful, especially with all the ice. Oh yeah, and the climbing was sick.

To start off the day I wanted to hit up the super sweet river problem, River Dance. I wasn't expecting to flash or to send at all considering it's a grade harder than anything I've ever done, but I was super psyched to get 3 of the 5 moves on my first session. Considering how out of shape I am and how good the holds felt, I think this problem could go with some more work. Oh yeah, and Kyle crushed this thing in good fashion after working it only once before. Dude's getting seriously strong, which I guess means I have to start listening to him when he tells me to do ab workouts with him. 

practicing my product placement shots

Next we hit up the roof and I have to say, it's not quite as large as the elephant sized rumors would suggest, but it's still impressive nonetheless. First I got on reconciliation which was pretty fun then it was on to Torpedo. This is one of those stupid stories that should be accompanied by a video but since I'm limited to a still camera, you'll just have to use your imagination. So I got on the problem once after having it explained to me and dropped after the first move I think because I needed more beta. Then, on my second go I cruised the thing up to the very last move. Now the last three moves are just campusing on jugs once pulling the lip and for some reason I was unable to hit the very last of the three. So dumb. So I fell and yelled some words/phrases I'd care not to repeat (sorry to anyone who was around) and continued to be humbled for the next 10-15 tries. Didn't get the send because each sequential attempt felt worse than the last. So I'm going to choose to look at this as a positive considering I almost got a v7 second go and felt good on a v9. Now I just need to get back out there and finish that business. 

Mike working the right sit to River Dance

Ya know, I'm starting to believe that head game is a bigger part of climbing (even bouldering) than I used to believe. Who cares how long the projects take or which problems feel stupid hard. This year I want to stay positive and continue to enjoy climbing because after all, that's what it's all about. I love pebble wrestlin' 

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